DRAWSTRING PURSE
Materials used:
2 balls (2 ounces each) worsted weight cotton
Hooks size F and H
2 beads (optional)
Stitches used:
chain (ch), single crochet (sc), half double crochet (hdc), slip stitch (sl st), reverse single crochet (rsc)
Finished size:
Approximately 8 inches wide x 4 1/2 inches deep x 6 1/2 inches tall
Instructions:
Using H hook, ch 18.
Round 1: sc in 2nd from hook and in each ch across, placing 3 sc in the last ch; working in opposite side of starting chain, work 1 sc in each chain, placing 2 sc in the last chain; join with a slip stitch in first sc. (38 sc)
Round 2: ch 1, sc in same st as joining and in each of the next 17 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of the next 17 sc, 3 sc in next sc, join with sl st in first sc (41 sc)
Round 3: ch 1, sc in same st as joining and in each of the next 16 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 sc in next, sc in each of the next 17 sc, 2 sc in next, sc in each of the next 2 sc, join with a slip stitch in the first sc (43 sc)
Round 4: ch 1, sc in same st as joining and in each of the next 16 sc, 2 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc in each of the next 17 sc, 2 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, join with a slip stitch in the first sc (50 sc)
Round 5: ch 1, sc in same st as joining and in each of the next 17 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 18 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, join with a slip stitch in the first sc (58 sc)
Round 6: ch 1, sc in the same st as joining and in each of the next 19 sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc in each of the next 5 sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc in each of the next 22 sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc in each of the next 7 sc, 2 sc in the next sc, join with a slip stitch in the first sc (62 sc)
Round 7: ch 1, sc in the same st as joining and in each of the next 19 sc, 2 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc in each of the next 3 sc, 2 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc in each of the next 21 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in each of the next 5 sc, 2 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next sc, join with a slip stitch to the first sc (70 sc)
Round 8: ch 1, sc in the same st as joining and in each of the next 21 sc, 2 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next next, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc in each of the next 25 sc, 2 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next next, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc in each of the next 6, join with a slip stitch in the first sc (80 sc)
Round 9: ch 1, sc in the same st as joining and in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch in the first sc (80 sc)
Round 10: repeat round 9, but in BACK LOOPS ONLY (80 sc) *note - this is the only round using back loops only
Rounds 11-13: repeat round 9 (80 sc)
Round 14: ch 1 sc in same st as joining, (sk next sc, 3 hdc in next sc, sk next sc, sc in next sc) repeat around ending with 3 hdc, join with slip stitch in first sc
Round 15: ch 2, 2 hdc in same st as joining, (sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc, 3 hdc in next sc) repeat around ending with sc, join with slip stitch in top of first ch 2
Round 16: ch 1, sc in same st as joining and in each st around, placing 2 sc in last st, join with slip stitch in first sc (80 sc)
Rounds 17-19: repeat round 9 (80 sc)
Round 20: repeat round 14
Round 21: repeat round 15
Round 22: repeat round 16
Rounds 23-25: repeat round 9 (80 sc)
Round 26: ch 1, sc in same st as joining, (ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next sc) around, ending with a sc in the last stitch, join with a slip stitch in the first sc
Round 27: ch 1, sc in same st as joining, (sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space) around, join with a slip stitch in the first sc
Round 28: ch 1, sc in same st as joining, ch 1, sk next sc and sc around, sc in last st, join with a slip stitch in the first sc
Round 29: ch 1, sc in same st as joining, sc in each st and ch-1 sp around, ending with 2 sc in last ch-1 sp, join with a slip stitch in the first sc
Rounds 30-32: repeat round 9 (80 sc)
Round 33: ch1, rsc in same st as joining and in each sc around, join with a slip stitch in first rsc, finish off
Strap:
Row 1: Using an H hook, chain 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each across, turn (5 sc)
Row 2: ch 1 (first sc of row throughout), sc in each sc across, turn (5 dc)
Repeat row 2 for a total of 120 rows, finish off
Locate center of purse side and place short edge of strap on top of row 30, whipstitch strap to purse, do the same to other side.
Drawstring:
Using a size F hook, chain 125, finish off. Insert one end of chain from outside to inside of purse at the center front, leaving about 2 inches on the outside of purse. Working on the inside of the purse around top row (round 32), weave chain behind every 5th or 6th stitch until completely around, Bring tail to outside to match the beginning. Thread pony or barrel beads onto tails and knot below the beads.
EASY BABY SWEATER
This is the first sweater I made from this pattern. I've since decided a button wasn't approriate for a baby's tender tummy if they were lying down wearing the sweater. I've switched to using ribbon to close it.
Materials:
3-ply baby or fingering yarn (I used Bernat Softee Baby, less than one 5-ounce skein)
E hook (I used G for the sweater shown and it's probably a size 6-9 months)
Gauge:
5 dc =1", 3 dc rows = 1" (this is for size 0-6 months)
Back:
Row 1 Ch 49, dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in each of next 2 ch, [ch 1, skip next ch, dc in each of next 3 chs] across, turn (12 groups of 3 dc)
Row 2 Ch 4, sc in 1st ch-1 space, [ch 3, sc in next ch-1 space] across, working last sc in top of dc of previous row, ch 3, turn (12 ch-3 loops)
Row 3 2 dc in first ch-3 loop, [ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-3 loop] across, turn
Rows 4 - 23 Repeat rows 2 and 3 ten times
DO NOT BREAK OFF, JUST CONTINUE TO FRONT
Front:
Row 1 Ch 4, sc in first ch-1 space, [ch 3, sc in next ch-1 space] 3 times, ch 3, turn (4 ch-3 loops)
Row 2 2 dc in first ch-3 loop, [ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-3 loop] 3 times, turn
Rows 3 - 23 Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the front measures the same as the back. Fasten off.
For the second half of the front, return to the back section. Skip 3 ch-1 spaces from the first front section and sl st your yarn to the 4th ch-1 space. Now complete as you did the first half of the front, working toward the opposite edge. DO NOT FASTEN OFF, turn.
Facing and collar:
Round 1 Ch 3, sc in next space, repeat around entire sweater, working into ends of either side of fronts and the back, with sc in each corner, join, ch3, turn
Round 2 [3 dc in first space, ch 1, 3 dc in next space] around garment. *Note - 4 dc in 2 spaces at each corner of the back and the fronts (not the neckline corners), join, turn (96 dc groups)
Round 3 Repeat round 1, working increases at each corner as follows: [ch 3, 2 sc between 2nd and 3rd dc of 4 dc group, ch 3, sc in next space] 2 times. Join at end of round, ch 3, turn
Round 4 Repeat round 2 (108 dc groups)
Round 5 Repeat round 3
Round 6 Repeat round 2 (120 dc groups)
Round 7 Repeat round 3
Round 8 Ch 3, 2 dc in first ch-3 space [ch 3, sl st into first ch (picot made), 3 dc in next space] 48 times, [3 dc into next ch-3 space, ch 1] 21 times, [3 dc in next ch-3 space, picot] 27 times, [3 dc into next ch-3 space, ch 1] 21 times, [3 dc in next ch-3 space, picot] for the remaining spaces, sl st to top of first ch 3 and fasten off.
Sleeves:
With wrong side facing, skip 3 ch-1 spaces from the last picot on one side, join yarn with sl st in next space
Row 1 Ch 4, sc in next ch-1 space, [ch 3, sc in next space] 13 times, ch 3, turn
Row 2 2 dc in the first ch-3 loop, [ch 1, 3 dc in next loop] across, turn
Rows 3 - 14 repeat rows 1 and 2, six times
Row 15 repeat row 1, once
Row 16 2 dc in first ch-3 loop, [picot, 3dc in next loop] across. Fasten off
Complete second sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Sew sleeve seams and side seam as far as the first picot (I used a whip stitch on the wrong side in the back loops only. It made a nice flat seam). Fold back front facing and collar. Sew either a ribbon or a crochet chain to either side of fronts and tie.
VINEGAR FOR CROCHET?
You bet, says Chincilla! I use it to "block" crocheted doilies and to lay seams flat during sewing. Mix one part vinegar to five parts tap water in a spray bottle. Spray your item until slightly damp. Iron (using correct setting for cloth). This will get rid of any "crinkles" that have occurred during the work and keeps seams from rising back up.
If the vinegar smell is not desired, then wash and dry accordingly. A retouch with an iron may be needed, but not often. The starch effect of the vinegar will remain in the cloth, but the vinegar smell is gone. I will generally not re-wash my crochet as the vinegar also helps eliminate any room odors.
INDIAN PAINT BRUSH AFGHAN
This is an old pattern my mother found the other day. I'm going to present it just as it's been saved all these years, so forgive the lack of completeness. I'm sure you'll do just fine with it :)
Materials needed
All yarn is Red Heart 4-ply knitting worsted -
3 skeins black
3 skeins pink
2 skeins varigated pink
3 skeins blue
2 skeins varigated blue
3 skeins red
2 skeins varigated red
3 skeins lime green
2 skeins varigated green
3 skeins orange
2 skeins varigated orange
3 skeins purple
2 skeins variaged purple
Size J crochet hook
Instructions
Using black, chain 275.
All rows are worked separately using single crochet. DO NOT TURN WORK. Leave 8 to 10 inches at the beginning and end of each row for fringe.
Five rows black for border.
Three rows pink, three rows varigated pink, three rows pink
One row black.
Three rows blue, three rows varigated blue, three rows blue.
One row black.
Continue pattern with the remaining colors.
Finish with five rows black for the border.
LACEY HAIR SCRUNCHIE
I made this scrunchie up as one of my very first projects while I was in rehab with a broken ankle and broken arm in 1998. I wanted to give something to all the nurses and the physical therapists as a thank you for being so kind to me (I was there for four months!) I've made them using #10 thread and Lustersheen, and both come out very nicely. These take no time at all to make....trust me, I have one daughter, two daughters-in-law and five nieces, I make alot of these :) The scrunchie in this picture was made in Lustersheen by one of the wonderful crafters who visit the about.com crochet board. Her name is Linda (LPGARS on the board), and I thank her for letting me share it with you.
Materials needed:
thread or yarn of choice
Hook sized to what you are working with
1 elastic pony holder, about 2 inches in diameter
Instructions:
*note - there is no turning in this pattern, simply work in rounds.
Round 1 - Slip st onto a pony elastic, then sc all the way around. No special count, just fill the holder.
Round 2 - Slip st to the first sc, (ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc) all the way around.
Round 3 - Slip st in the bottom of the first ch3, (ch 5, sc in top of ch 3 loop from previous row) all the way around.
Round 4 - Slip st in the bottom of the first ch5, slip st around the ch5 loop, ch 3, 2 dc in same loop, ch 2, 3 dc in same loop (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch 5 loop and all the way around.
Round 5 - Slip st to top of first ch3 to join. (sc in each dc, 3 sc in each ch 2 space) all the way around. Join to first sc and finish off.
